Empress sponge

Almost exactly two years ago I found myself on-stage at the Theakstons Old Peculier Crime Writing Festival in Harrogate, among the line-up for the McDermid Debut of the Year award. One of my fellow shortlistees was Suk Pannu, celebrated screenwriter (Goodness, Gracious, Me and The Kumars at No 42) and now creator of an irresistible cosy crime series.

The second book in the series – Mrs Sidhu’s Just Desserts – is out shortly, and it’s huge fun. Early in the story, Mrs Sidhu – a high-end caterer – describes ‘a flawless cake’ she has invented, based on the classic Victoria sponge. ‘If Victoria was the Queen of England, she was also Empress of India, so why not a few touches of the subcontinent?' Earl Grey tea was folded into the sponge mix, mango jam used instead of strawberry, buttercream icing made from cane sugar. Each touch elevated it a notch higher.’

It's given me great pleasure to work out the recipe – with the encouragement of Suk (and Mrs Sidhu) – and present it here.

First prepare the Earl Grey flavouring. Bring 2 tablespoons milk and the contents of 1 Earl Grey teabag to the boil in a small pan or the microwave, then leave covered to steep. Finely grind the contents of a second Earl Grey teabag in a spice grinder.

To make the cake, butter and base-line two 20cm shallow cake tins. Take a generous mixing bowl and beat 4 eggs in it. Then add 200g caster sugar, 200g softened butter, 200g self-raising flour, 1 tsp baking powder and the Earl Grey powder. Strain in the Earl Grey flavoured milk. Beat everything together till smooth, divide between tins and bake at 170C fan for 20 minutes, till golden and risen, rotating the tins at half time so they bake evenly.

Leave to cool for ten minutes, loosen the edges, then turn out the cakes and leave to cool completely.

To assemble, place the less beautiful layer on a cake plate. Spread generously with mango jam. Beat 100g softened butter with 140g sifted Tate & Lyle cane icing sugar, ½ tsp vanilla extract and a few drops of orange extract (optional). Spread evenly over the jam, then top with the other cake layer. To finish, dust with icing sugar.

(If you prefer, you can swap the buttercream for 250ml double cream, whipped till just floppy with 1tbsp sugar and a splash of vanilla and orange extracts.)

Serve immediately, or eat within two days.